Jump to content


Remembered Today:

0

Early SMLE stock repair


7 replies to this topic

#1 john in minnesota

john in minnesota

    Lieutenant

  • Old Sweats
  • 236 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:usa
  • Interests:WW1 CEF uniforms, gear, weapons. Also WW1 Australian

Posted 25 April 2010 - 03:38 PM

I recently bought a Mk 1*** that has most of the nice early features... but sadly the forestock has been cut/broken and someone attempted to fix it.    I'd like to fix it properly but I haven't found anyone willing to take it on.  The break is hidden under the barrel band but the patch needs to be real strong.  Anyone know of a good stock repair shop in the US?





#2 4thGordons

4thGordons

    Major-General

  • Old Sweats
  • 4,836 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Interests:(longterm) 4th Gordon Highlanders.(more recently) 33rd "Prairie Division" AEF and American Field Service 1917-18

Posted 25 April 2010 - 07:12 PM

Hi John
I do not know of anyone off hand but I do frequent a couple of enfield discussion boards and will ask. I need to see if I can find someone who can fashion about 6" of fored for my 1905 Ross too.  The break is unfortunate given the scarcity of the early forends. The good news is the repair will largely be covered by the rear band.

Actually I think this point of weakness was one of the reasons (THE reason?) that on the MkIII rifles the inner barrel band was relocated so it did not coincide with the outer one - thus avoiding the thin point on the wood.
The coincidence of the two also makes the repair harder - I have seen similar breaks repaired by pinning and, inside, reinforcng with epoxy and mesh (like that used in auto body-work).Here the presence of the inner band screw will make that impossible.
I'll have an ask around.
Do we get to see the whole rifle? There seem to have been more MkI***s  showing up in the last year or so than I have seen in the last two decades. Most of them are in MkIII wood however so even with the break finding a MkI forend is a nice deal. Does the rifle have a CR or ER serial number?
Chris

#3 john in minnesota

john in minnesota

    Lieutenant

  • Old Sweats
  • 236 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:usa
  • Interests:WW1 CEF uniforms, gear, weapons. Also WW1 Australian

Posted 25 April 2010 - 07:35 PM

Thanks 4th Gordons,  Here are a couple more pics: The rifle has all matching numbers (though they are Irish ER).  It appears to be a MkI* upgraded to I***







#4 Tartan_Terrier

Tartan_Terrier

    Second Lieutenant

  • Old Sweats
  • 104 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Denmark

Posted 25 April 2010 - 07:45 PM

As Chris suggests pinning it is probably your best bet.

Here is a how-to guide:

http://forums.gunboa....cut-quot-(pics)

#5 4thGordons

4thGordons

    Major-General

  • Old Sweats
  • 4,836 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Interests:(longterm) 4th Gordon Highlanders.(more recently) 33rd "Prairie Division" AEF and American Field Service 1917-18

Posted 25 April 2010 - 07:47 PM

VERY nice example. I am envious, especially as you have the original rear hand-guard.  I have ER 5043, also a BSA rifle (1905), looks decent but has a mkIII handguard and the fore end, although MkI was modified for a charger bridge at some point.
I'll drop you a line if I find anyone
Chris

EDIT:TT  trouble is with this particular location there is so little wood into which to pin because of the inner band, so I am not sure the standard approach will be sufficient. It will take someone far more skilled in woodworking than me to solve this elegantly.

#6 hawgeye

hawgeye

    Corporal

  • Members2
  • 20 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Fairbanks, Alaska
  • Interests:Fishing, shooting sports, military history and weaponry, 1900 to 1940, motorcycles

Posted 23 May 2010 - 04:41 PM

I have made repairs to foreends with similar problems by removing wood from both sections and aligning and joining them with a suitable length of comparable wood. The alignment is the most difficult part. I made an alignment jig from plywood and used a router to remove wood from both sections of foreend along the centerline barrel channel. If the repair is to be hidden then care must be taken to leave suficient original wood along the bottom of the foreend to cover the tenon being glued in place. I use glas bedding epoxy to make the glue joint because the fiberglass additive adds strength to the glue joint. The original wood must be suffciently degreased to allow a good bonding of epoxy to wood. This is not an easy repair because the joint is a break and not a duffle cut, but the repair will be covered by the band. If you want to do it yourself it can be done with a lot of care and time. Good luck no matter how you decide to proceed.

#7 john in minnesota

john in minnesota

    Lieutenant

  • Old Sweats
  • 236 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:usa
  • Interests:WW1 CEF uniforms, gear, weapons. Also WW1 Australian

Posted 24 May 2010 - 01:24 AM

Thanks for the suggestion.  The rifle is still sitting on my workbench (right where I left it) - so I may not be getting around to this project any time soon.  This repair might be better left to a new owner....

#8 4thGordons

4thGordons

    Major-General

  • Old Sweats
  • 4,836 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Interests:(longterm) 4th Gordon Highlanders.(more recently) 33rd "Prairie Division" AEF and American Field Service 1917-18

Posted 24 May 2010 - 01:35 AM

QUOTE (john in minnesota @ May 23 2010, 08:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanks for the suggestion.  The rifle is still sitting on my workbench (right where I left it) - so I may not be getting around to this project any time soon.  This repair might be better left to a new owner....


Really.....?  w00t.png

Sorry for not getting back to you btw - I haven't found anyone who comes especially recommended.
Chris