QUOTE (Greenwoodman @ Jul 11 2005, 09:50 AM)
Hi Simon
I went to Fajara when I went to the Gambia, primed to get Terry's shot of Stillwell.
If you are staying on the coast, Fajara is a short taxi ride from the hotels (the name of the one we stayed at will come back to me shortly). However, it is off the normal taxi rat runs for which there are fixed prices. So you will get charged a price which seems higher than for a similar distance going down the coast to another area or hotel. Having said that, its not expensive - I think it was £2-50 sterling or thereabouts. Fajara is mainly under shade trees, three sides of a square. Its on red soil, which can be muddy if you visit immediately after watering. (Told you it would - the Kombo Beach Hotel!). What startled me was that the CWGC chargehand sidled up to us and requested a tip - undertones of its worth a few bob to ensure that the work goes on.
As you probably know, the majority of Gambians near the tourist areas seem to live on tips, provided by the Europeans holidaying there. I have to say that it got very wearing. I had 800-odd units of the local currency (the dalasi, roughly 50 to the pound) left on the final day, with just the trip to the airport to worry about. So IIRC, I tipped the hotel porter who took our bags from the room to the waiting area, the guy who loaded the bags on to the coach, the coach driver, a collection basket on the coach ostensibly for a local charity, the guy who off-loaded our bags at the airport, a porter from the coach to the check-in desk, a guy (in uniform) who was organising the queue, and finally the guy who lifted the bags off the customs inspection table on to the belt to be taken away to load (well are you going to risk your bag getting split open wile being flung on to a lorry?). Result? Zero Gambian dalasis and we bought our refreshments using sterling. I hope your experience is more positive, Simon.
Glad that Terry's getting a second chance at Stilwell - I went with a new digital camera, and despite two visits to the cemetery, couldn't master its quirks sufficiently well to get Terry's photo. I did get some, but despite thinking I had taken several of Stilwell, not Terry's!

Enjoy it Simon - sure to be pretty hot in August!
Thanks for the help Greenwoodman. This is in fact my fourth visit to The Gambia and I have traveled elsewhere in Africa, so I know things can sometimes be difficult there. Being used to Africa, I have passed finding the people in The Gambia wearing - usually I find a firm refusal does not offend and often leads to an interesting conversation with people whose interest in our culture is greater than our interest in theirs. That said I do not blame Gambians for trying to get money from tourists when they can, most of them are living on amounts of money that we could not hope to survive on and we are wealthy beyond their wildest dreams.
Despite getting malaria on my second visit (yes I was taking the pills as well), our experience has been very positive, but one has to travel bearing in mind that this is a very poor country totally lacking in natural resources whose only source of revenue is tourism. Resources are insufficient to offer services of the standard that we are used to, and if the Gambians do not make money from tourism they risk starvation - it is that simple.
We have always been treated with courtesy and kindness and now have friends in The Gambia with whom we have traveled right up country away from the tourist resorts on the coast, where we have met unfailing courtesy and a good welcome. Even when I was very ill, I was cared for and treated with great consideration and my experience of the only hospital up-country in The Gambia was an eye opener as to what life is like for most people living in underdeveloped countries, where there is virtually no infrastructure for health care. When I was unwell my wife traveled on further up country with our Gambian friends and was treated with courtesy and friendship throughout, even if she was sometimes treated as something of a curiosity, being the first white person some people she met had ever seen.
I really do think that one has to approach The Gambia (and Africa in general) with a different mindset. These are countries which do not and cannot operate in the way that we do, they simply lack the natural resources. Despite the poverty in The Gambia, in my experience, crime is virtually non-existent, and I have gone to very poor areas with expensive cameras and telescopes for birdwatching, where the temptation to steal from me must have been very great. Furthermore, despite their poverty, the Gambians have received tens of thousands (probably hundred of thousands) of refugees from West Africa's brutal and savage civil wars into their country without complaint and made them welcome. Imagine the uproar if people in the UK (all wealthy beyond the widest dreams of most Gambians) were asked to welcome refugees from a War in continental Europe in the manner that The Gambia has received refugees from wars in Guinea, Sierra Leone, Senegal and other places.
The people are, within their economic capabilities, in my experience, the most welcoming I have ever met and they are justifiably proud of their country's climate, welcoming people and beautiful coastline. T
It will be apparent from the above that I love the place. Always feel safe, welcome and comfortable. My wife feels the same, even when she has traveled as the only white face in what is entirely black Africa and would be seen by some as a place to be feared. Would that I could say that black visitors would be met with so little prejudice in all parts of Britain! That said, I would not encourage people to visit if they are looking for western standards of comfort or facilities, or cannot live with service which, though kind and affable, is not always quick by European standards. Nor, in my opinion, is it worth visiting if (as most tourist do) you are not gong to leave the narrow area around the beaches inhabited by the coastal hotels. On our second visit a British family staying in our hotel did not leave the grounds of the hotel until the last day of their holiday - scarcely the way to experience Africa.
Finally, I would add that (particularly for those not constrained by school holidays who can visit in the UK winter) The Gambia is one of the best birdwatching locations in the world.